Tencel Lyocell Fabric

Lyocell Fabric & Sustainability

If you’ve been shopping for eco-friendly clothing, the chances are that you’ve come across Lyocell fabric. More sustainable fashion brands now use this increasingly popular material in their search for eco-friendly alternatives to materials with a higher environmental cost.

Lyocell is often compared with cotton and other semi-synthetic fibers like modal and viscose. It is important to recognize that Tencel is a brand name for a type of lyocell. You’ll find the Tencel line often praised for its sustainable production process. While we also see appealing properties such as breathability, comfort, and softness attributed to Tencel fibers. If you’re wondering if these claims stack up, this article provides what you need to know. 

Quick links for Lyocell Fabric:

What is Tencel / Lyocell Fabric?

Both generic and Tencel branded lyocell come from plant-based fibers derived primarily from eucalyptus. Lyocell is a type of semi-synthetic fiber that we obtain from natural raw materials made up of cellulosic regenerated fibers. What makes it semi-synthetic is the process of production that requires soaking in solutions. This material is a type of rayon fabric that manufacturers make in a similar way as viscose and modal. However, they use more sustainable production processes and solutions than the others.

Producers acquire lyocell from wood pulp, either from eucalyptus trees, birch or oak. One of the reasons why Tencel fibers have become a popular name is because Lenzing AG is the world’s largest lyocell fiber manufacturer2. Lenzing owns the Tencel brand, and Tencel is the subdivision that produces its semi-synthetic textiles. Asides from Tencel Lyocell, this also includes Tencel Modal. 

Fashion brands use Tencel Lyocell to make various styles of clothes, from activewear and basics to eucalyptus sheets. This is because they recognize Tencel for its softness, durability, breathability, and sustainability.

Also, some brands mix and blend Tencel fibers with others like cotton, wool, and polyester. When combined with less sustainable materials, Tencel / lyocell clothing may not always end up as sustainable as suggested. Once a manufacturer mixes Tencel with a synthetic fiber, it begins to lose its eco-friendly features.

Lenzing’s method to generate its textiles makes for another reason why those in the know praise Tencel. It uses eucalyptus wood pulp from sustainably managed sources. Lenzing certifies the fibers using the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) standard as 100% bio-based

How Lyocell Fibers are Made

Photo Credit: Murray Fagg (CC BY 3.0 AU)

The production processes of lyocell fibers start with wood. Tencel and Lenzing fibers come from sustainably sourced wood and trees and they’ve designed an eco-friendly manufacturing process with a minimal carbon footprint. The procedure involves a closed-loop system that transforms wood pulp into cellulosic fibers. Also, during production, the manufacturers recover and reuse the solvent. Compared with other rayon manufacturing techniques, lyocell / Tencel manufacturing presents a more eco-friendly system. 

The first step is harvesting eucalyptus trees. With Tencel, these trees come from natural and sustainable forests. After the farmers harvest the eucalyptus tree, they cut the trunks into tiny wood chips. Afterward, factory workers use a solution of non-toxic N-Methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) to dissolve and soften the eucalyptus wood chips into pulp. NMMO is an amine oxide that has proved to be an excellent solvent for cellulose6. Usually, they recycle the solvent during manufacturing activity. 

Consequently, this process produces raw cellulose, a sticky, viscous liquid. Next, they then pass and filter the liquid through spinnerets, which have tiny holes. In turn, the procedure generates long, thin fiber threads. The manufacturers next immerse and set the fibers in diluted amine oxide. Then, they wash the fibers in demineralized water. After drying, the fibers are ready to be spun into yarn. Eventually, they’ll be woven into fabric for apparel and other products like bedsheets. 

History of Lyocell / Tencel

Early Developments - What You Need to Know

The origin of cellulose-based fabrics dates back to the 19th century, with researchers and chemists tested ways to develop artificial silk. George Audemars, a Swiss chemist, patented an early version of rayon fiber called artificial silk. He developed a method to take the inner barks of mulberry trees, dissolve them and dip needles in the solution to draw out the fibers.

Building on this, Joseph W. Swan, another chemist, conceived an idea. He would take the solution and force it through fine holes. At the time, he was able to generate fibers, yet there was not much interest in the products of his labor. Later in 1891, Count Hilaire de Chardonnet, a French chemist, built the first plant for commercial rayon production. 

Later on, between 1966-1968, Eastman Kodak Inc.’s D. L. Johnson reported dissolving compounds in NMMO3. In the following years, an establishment in the United States called American Enka further explored using the NMMO solution and its applicability to produce fabrics. The researchers set out to create regenerated cellulose fiber. However, they weren’t successful enough to commercialize it. Finally, a research group at Courtaulds, a British establishment, developed a process of producing lyocell fiber. Pat White led this research team in 1982. 

The 90s till Now

In 1992, Courtaulds began operating in Alabama, US. The company created a trademark brand name for its lyocell fiber and fabric - Tencel. Around this period, Lenzing AG, an Austrian company, produced this fiber from wood pulp. They called their lyocell textile Lenzing Lyocell. Later in 2004, Lenzing acquired Courtaulds’ Tencel group. As a result, Lenzing became a major lyocell producer. Sometimes, brands use Tencel fabric to refer to lyocell. Lenzing has since built a reputation for using innovative technology to produce its materials.

How sustainable is Lyocell?

People consider Tencel / lyocell fabric a versatile choice. Brands use it to create products like t-shirts, bedding, activewear, and more. However, the main question is the sustainability of this fiber and if it stands out amongst others. When people think of eco-friendly fibers, it’s easy for the mind to wander to organic materials like organic cotton and hemp. This section will examine the impacts of Tencel / lyocell on the environment to determine the sustainability of products made from Tencel / lyocell. 

The Source

We can trace the environmental effects of Tencel from its source or origin. Eucalyptus trees grow at a fast rate. These trees do not require pesticides or irrigation to grow. However, some farming processes require some use of pesticides which can be toxic. Typically, eucalyptus grows on land not fit for food-producing agriculture.

The lifecycle of Tencel / lyocell has a minimal impact on the environment4 which helps create a more sustainable product compared with cotton and synthetic fibers that use more land, pesticides, and fertilizers. 

Manufacturing Lyocell Fabric

We can recognize the spinning procedure as a green technology that uses non-toxic chemicals. It also reduces water and air emissions. Lenzing claims to have developed a method that enables them to recover about 99% of the solvent in a closed-loop. The amine oxide solvent is non-toxic compared with the chemicals manufacturers use for viscose rayon. The manufacturers recycle the solvent during operations. Therefore, it doesn’t release harmful byproducts into the environment. 

A primary environmental concern with generic lyocell is energy use during manufacturing and its knock-on ecological impacts on our climate. As a result, it is important to track the source or manufacturer of lyocell when purchasing. Also, if the manufacturer does not grow the trees in sustainable forests, this causes an environmental issue.

Pros and Cons of Lyocell

Pros

  • Moisture Wicking: Tencel / lyocell clothes are known for their moisture-wicking property meaning it transfers sweat or moisture from the body. As a result, you’ll find it suitable for hot weather because it helps keep the body cool. Fans of the fabric often compare this moisture absorbing property with that of cotton and modal. A study revealed that Lyocell has higher wicking properties than modal1
  • Biodegradable: Tencel / lyocell is both biodegradable and compostable because the manufacturing method does not involve destructive by-products. Manufacturers use non-toxic, recyclable amine oxide. In addition, eucalyptus trees don’t need pesticides or irrigation. However, this quality can degrade when mixed with synthetic fibers.
  • Durable: Long-lasting and strong. Products made from lyocell do not break or fall apart easily. Nor do they wrinkle easily. 
  • Suitable for Sensitive Skin: Lyocell is suitable for people with sensitive skin. A study revealed that people with Atopic Dermatitis (AD) preferred lyocell to cotton5. These people also had lower average itching and preferred it to cotton due to its moisture control, softness, and temperature control properties. 
  • Breathable: When compared with fabrics like cotton, you’ll find lyocell more breathable. Further, its soft feel offers comfort to the skin.

Cons

  • Costly: You may find Tencel / Lyocell expensive to purchase due to the technology manufacturers employ to make products from it. As a result, producers can transfer certain costs to the consumers. 
  • Low Dye Absorbency: During manufacturing, lyocell’s reasonably low surface energy can make it challenging for dyes to bind to it. 

Brands that Use Lyocell / Tencel Material

Various brands on the market use Tencel to make their products. Some of them include:

MATE the Label

MATE the Label offers clean essentials using low-impact dyes, natural and organic fabrics. They use Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified materials and offer a collection of sleepwear pieces offering long-lasting softness utilizing a blend of Tencel Lyocell and organic cotton. MATE the Label describes their cotton-Tencel blend as “the next best thing to sleeping naked.”

Shop MATE the Label

Tentree

Tentree seeks to champion transparency. The team carefully selects the material they use for each piece, making sure it upholds their sustainability values. Its material bank includes Tencel fabric, organic cotton, hemp, and recycled polyester.

Shop Tentree

Patagonia

Photo Credit: Patagonia

Patagonia designs outdoor wear and gear for sports such as climbing, surfing, skiing, and snowboarding. A leading brand with a sustainability ethos, they continue to seek the means to reduce energy use and emissions during their manufacturing processes. Patagonia uses Tencel and other sustainable fabrics to make its clothes.

Shop Patagonia

Athleta

Athleta creates clothes that integrate technical features and performance for girls and women. From athletic wear to yoga wear, Athleta provides sustainable options for activewear. Athleta is B Corp certified and uses fabrics like organic cotton, Tencel Lyocell, and Tencel Modal.

Shop Athleta

Organic Basics

Organic Basics uses eco-certified materials to create its underwear, activewear, and essentials. Some of these materials include GOTS Certified organic cotton and Tencel. Whether you’re looking for a shirt, dress, sweater, or denim piece, Organic Basics stocks essentials while recognizing the textile industry’s impact and seeking to make positive changes.

Shop Organic Basics

Mother of Pearl

Mother of Pearl is a luxury sustainable womenswear establishment based in London. It celebrates individuality, authenticity, and sustainability. The brand uses eco-friendly materials like organic cotton and Tencel to make its pieces.

Shop Mother of Pearl

Lyocell vs Cotton

Tencel’s sustainability compares favorably when compared with conventionally grown cotton. People often regard cotton as a thirsty crop because it requires a substantial amount of water to grow. Also, farmers use pesticides and other chemicals while growing cotton. They do not require these potential pollutants for eucalyptus farming that produces the raw materials for Tencel.

Lyocell vs Modal

Tencel Lyocell is a more sustainable rayon option than modal. It requires an organic solution to produce it, compared with sodium hydroxide that many manufacturers use to make modal. However, people often celebrate Tencel Modal due to Lenzing’s procedures to create its Tencel and Lenzing fibers. 

Lyocell vs Viscose 

Viscose manufacturing requires sodium hydroxide, which Tencel / Lyocell does not need. Regarding the finished products, lyocell clothing is more breathable and moisture-absorbent than viscose.

Conclusion

In general, you’ll note the importance of knowing the source or manufacturers of the lyocell product you want to purchase. The source will determine the level of sustainability of the product. For instance, Tencel is a well-known lyocell brand that clothing brands patronize for its transparency and sustainable practices. As a result, it’s easy to get the latest information on the product you’re buying through a simple web search. 

1

Ozdemir, H. (2017). Permeability and wicking properties of modal and lyocell woven fabrics used for clothing. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, 12(1), DOI: 10.1177/155892501701200102

2

Chen, J. (2015). Synthetic textile fibers: regenerated cellulose fibers. In Textiles and Fashion (pp. 79-95). Woodhead Publishing. DOI:https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-84569-931-4.00004-0 

3

Chen, J. (2015). Synthetic textile fibers: regenerated cellulose fibers. In Textiles and Fashion (pp. 79-95). Woodhead Publishing. DOI:https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-1-84569-931-4.00004-0 

4

Choudhury, A. K. R. (2017). Sustainable chemical technologies for textile production. In Sustainable Fibres and textiles (pp. 267-322). Woodhead Publishing. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102041-8.00010-X

5

Love, E. W., & Nedorost, S. T. (2009). Fabric preferences of atopic dermatitis patients. Dermatitis, 20(1), 29-33

6

Ozipek, B., & Karakas, H. (2014). Wet spinning of synthetic polymer fibers. In Advances in filament yarn spinning of textiles and polymers (pp. 174-186). Woodhead Publishing

Jennifer is a content writer with an educational background in Public Relations and Advertising. From her desk in Lagos, Nigeria, she helps businesses around the world reach and connect with their audiences.
Photo by David Clode on Unsplash
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