List of Chemicals in Fast Fashion and Their Impact

Purchasing from fast-fashion brands isn’t advisable because it harms the environment and societal health. The production processes, starting from the supply chains, involve dangerous chemicals. About 3,500 chemicals transform a textile from raw materials to the final product in the fast-fashion industry¹³. 

The global textile chemicals market was worth $21.23 billion in 2020¹⁴, and about 10% of these chemicals are harmful. Manufacturers use these chemicals to make clothes stain-resistant or a certain color.

In this article, we will examine nine groups of chemicals in a toxic fashion. We will also discuss their impact and how environmental organizations regulate their usage. 

9 Common Toxic Chemical Substances in Fast Fashion

Be wary of the following chemicals found in fast fashion:

1. Disperse dyes or Azo dyes

Another toxic chemical found in the fast fashion industry is disperse dyes, a group of small, insoluble pigments ground into a dispersing agent. Manufacturers buy them in spray or paste form to dye cellulose acetate and other synthetic textiles like acrylic, polyester, nylon, and polypropylene. 

Dyes are a crucial part of the textile industry. However, disperse and azo dyes that produce polluted wastewater into the environment. Also, fabric dyed with disperse causes allergic reactions when it touches the skin. 

The first discovery of disperse dye toxicity was after nylon stockings were launched in the United States markets in the 1940s. Women experienced itchy rash, swelling, and blistering skin in areas of contact. Furthermore, research shows these toxic dyes have a more long-term effect on human health. Ten dyes can lead to cancer in humans.

2. Tributyl phosphate

Tributyl phosphate is a colorless and odorless organophosphorus compound. It is an ester of phosphoric acid with n-butyl. Manufacturers produce it by reacting phosphoryl chloride with n-butanol. They use it as a solvent and plasticizer for cellulose esters. 

You’ll also find it in herbicide concentrate, water-thinned paints, synthetic resins, emulsions, paints, pigment grinding assistants, and adhesives. It is also an anti-foaming agent in detergents.

3. Forever Chemicals

Forever chemicals are a group of toxic chemicals known as PFAS (polyfluoroalkyl substances). The clothing industry uses PFAS to make water—and grease-resistant clothes. PFAS are hazardous to human and environmental health because they do not break down, hence the name forever chemicals. 

Methyl and ethylperfluorooctane sulfonamidoethanol (MeFOSE and EtFOSE) are the common forms of PFAS in clothing. Clothing manufacturers have used PFAS since the 1940s, so most Americans have it in their blood and tissue. About 95% of Americans have PFAS in their blood and tissue¹.

PFAS are in adult and children’s products such as outdoor jackets, raincoats, swimsuits, trousers, t-shirts, and hijab from Germany, Serbia, the United Kingdom, the United States, India, Kenya, the Netherlands, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Poland, and the Czech Republic. 

The fast fashion industry uses sidechain fluorotelomer-based polymers (SFPs), a form of PFAS, in their manufacturing process to make clothes water-resistant. Contact with PFAS can lead to various health problems⁸, like cancer, and disrupt the endocrine and immune systems.

Children are more vulnerable to PFAS. Exposure causes elevated levels of blood cholesterol, reduction in antibodies response to certain vaccines and infections, and dyslipidemias.

No comprehensive regulation is in place to prevent the global use of PFAS. Some countries have PFAS regulations in place. Three PFAS and chemicals related to them are banned globally.  

4. BPA

Next on our list of harmful chemicals found in new clothes from fast-fashion brands is BPA, or bisphenol A. Bisphenol A is a hormone-disrupting chemical used to make plastics. It is in socks, sports bras, athletic shirts, and other clothes produced with spandex/polyester textiles.

Manufacturers use BPA to produce dyes and antioxidants. They also use it to improve the lifespan and properties of polyester clothing. Wearing clothes containing this hazardous chemical affects health through dermal absorption⁶.

Research conducted by the Center for Environmental Health (CEH) shows 12 sports brands with BPA. These sports fashion brands are New Balance, Nike, Reebok, Brooks, Asics, All in Motion, PINK, Athleta, FILA, The North Face, and Mizuno.

BPA disrupts the endocrine system and causes breast cancer⁷, prostate cancer, metabolic disorders, diabetes, and congenital disabilities. Pregnant women, newborns, and toddlers are more vulnerable to toxic chemicals. 

5. Phthalates

Phthalates are hazardous chemicals in fast fashion. The clothing industry uses them in the production process to soften the ink printed on clothes and as plasticizers to increase their durability and flexibility. 

Unfortunately, phthalates are endocrine disruptors¹², causing reproductive toxicity. They cause skin irritation from dermal contact and could lead to the development of cancer, disrupt the immune system, and increase the risk of diabetes and other health problems.

6. Heavy Metals

Heavy metals are harmful substances in clothing sold by popular fast-fashion brands. For example, some clothing from Shein, one of the most popular fast-fashion brands, contains metals like lead.

Other metals include copper, chromium, cadmium, and mercury. Lead is one of the most common and dangerous heavy metals in clothing. Even at low concentrations, lead is harmful to humans and the environment. 

Lead is in natural fibers like organic cotton, hemp, and flax. Manufacturers use lead in the dying process of various fabrics and textiles. Lead enters our hormone systems through dermal absorption, leading to multiple skin reactions, allergies, dermatitis, and reduction of skin microflora. 

Lead also causes neurotoxin, which affects the human brain and reproductive system and impedes cognitive development. Chromium causes respiratory problems and sinus cancers, while copper causes depression, headaches, insomnia, arthritis, and panic attacks. Clearly, it is imperative to prevent exposure to these heavy metals for the sake of our health⁵.

7. Herbicides and Pesticides

Herbicides and pesticides are potentially toxic chemicals that can be found in clothes made with natural fibers, specifically cotton. According to the USDA, cotton is one of the most chemical-intensive crops and the third largest user of pesticides in the United States. 

Neonicotinoids, pyrethroids, glyphosate, organophosphates, dicamba, and glufosinate are common herbicides and insecticides used in cotton farms. These toxic chemicals harm the environment by contaminating water sources and harming wildlife and humans.

8. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)

Another set of chemicals in clothing from ultra-fast fashion brands is volatile organic compounds (VOCs)¹¹, which are organic chemicals released as gases from liquid and solid substances⁴. VOCs include benzene, xylene, ethyl benzene, toluene, chloroethylene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde.

The clothing industry produces VOCs through fabric coating processes. It also uses them as paint, dry cleaning agents, glue, and solvents in shoe lining.  Manufacturers also use it to produce ink and dye pigments.

The absorption of VOCs causes eye, nose, and throat irritation, migraines, and dizziness. Extended exposure to elevated levels of VOCs can lead to serious health issues, especially for people with chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and asthma. 

9. Flame Retardants

Flame retardants are chemicals the fashion industry uses to make fabrics more fire-resistant. They reduce the combustion rate and stop the fire from spreading to other clothes. Some flame retardants are bromine and chlorine, nitrogen, and phosphorus-based.

These toxic chemicals are harmful, especially to your children. They affect the body’s metabolic function and may cause cancer. Also, they negatively impact fetal and child development and neurobehavioral function². 

The Environmental Impact of Toxic Chemicals 

Water Pollution

Fast fashion enormously impacts the environment, wildlife, and humans. Because of this negative environmental impact, many chemicals are considered toxic. One significant way these hazardous substances affect the environment is through wastewater pollution. 

The industry pollutes water through various chemical usage processes, such as dyeing and finishing. Dying natural and synthetic fibers is responsible for about 20% of global industrial pollution of waterways¹⁰. Wastewater in rivers, oceans, and estuaries harms wildlife, especially aquatic life.

Wastewater from fast fashion can cause coral bleaching, disrupt the aquatic food chain, and alter the reproductive cycles of marine life. It destroys their ecosystem and reduces the water quality. Wastewater pollution impairs the growth and development of aquatic animals. The pollution and reduction in water quality also affect humans. The contamination of freshwater sources affects 60% of American homes because that is their primary water source.

Dhaka, Bangladesh

A perfect example of the effect of fast-fashion wastewater is the water crisis in Bangladesh’s capital, Dhaka. Dhaka is the world’s second-biggest cloth-making center, and its canals have turned black from toxic chemical dye wastewater. The water is so polluted that no fish live in it, and it pollutes Dhaka’s drinking water sources.

For the past few years, researchers have found dangerous levels of zinc, copper, lead, chromium, arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and vanadium in Dhaka’s waters. These waters are used for agricultural irrigation, and further research showed the presence of dyes in vegetables and fruits from textile industrial areas³.

Pearl River Delta in China

Another case of wastewater pollution is in China. Pearl River Delta contains nonylphenol¹⁵, octylphenol, trialkyl phosphates, and dichloroaniline dye. At the same time, the Yangtze River Delta, close to the Youngor Textile Complex, has elevated levels of amine compounds, toxic perfluorinated compounds, tributyl phosphate, and chlorinated solvents.

Citarum River in Indonesia

One of the most polluted rivers in the world is the Citarum River in Indonesia⁹. It achieved that rank because of the 200+ textile factories that discharge wastewater into it. They contaminated it with lead, chromium, cobalt, arsenic, and dyes.

High Water Usage 

Chemicals used in textile production are very water-intensive. The fashion industry uses over 79 trillion liters of water annually, which is responsible for the large quantity of wastewater these factories produce. Whether they make new clothes with natural or synthetic fabrics is fine; fashion is water-intensive. 

For instance, organic cotton is a water-intensive natural fiber. Farmers consider cotton one of the thirstiest crops. Producing one cotton T-shirt requires about 2,700 liters of water, which one person can drink for 900 days.

Harmful to Human Health  

Fast fashion brands' use of toxic chemicals significantly affects human health. Two groups are affected: factory workers and those who wear clothing containing these chemicals. 

Garment workers are at greater risk because they interact directly with these harmful chemicals. Regular consumers also interact with these chemicals when they absorb them through their skin or ingest contaminated water and edible products. For instance, Dhaka's dye-contaminated fruits and vegetables threaten the health of its locals. 

Most factories have poor working conditions, meaning they do not value worker safety. Many garment workers work without safety measures, such as gloves, safety goggles, masks, and other protective gear. These factory workers often experience multiple chemical sensitivity, such as itchy skin, sore throat, skin irritation, and breathing problems.

These chemicals are endocrine disruptors. They cause reproductive harm, damage to the liver and kidneys, increase cholesterol levels, and disrupt the immune system. Children are the most vulnerable to these harmful chemicals. 

Unborn babies are exposed to PFAS in their mother’s womb, while newborns absorb the chemical through breast milk. It causes birth defects and hinders infant development. Research shows that it can induce hyperactivity in children. Phthalates affect testosterone production at an early age¹⁶, causing irreversible damage to the male reproductive system.

It can change the way a male child’s genitals develop. Phthalates also cause obesity, low birth weight, reduction in female fertility levels, and worsen the conditions of asthmatic people. On the other hand, BPA primarily affects the female reproductive system¹⁷.

Limitations placed on the fast fashion industry to reduce the use of harmful chemicals  

In recent years, the government and environmental organizations have come together to hold fashion brands accountable for using toxic chemicals in the industry. There are regulations to restrict the use of dangerous substances and promote responsible manufacturing in fashion. Some of these regulations are: 

• China REACH or MEP Order 7 is a regulation that ensures chemical manufacturers and importers submit notifications and receive approvals before importing or producing chemicals. 
• Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals, or REACH, is a European Union regulation established in 2006 and enforced on June 1, 2007. It regulates the effects of chemical substances manufactured or imported on society and the environment.
• Strategic Approach to International Chemicals Management (SAICM) is a global initiative established in 2006 during the World Summit on Sustainable Development. It aims to support the world in the sustainable management of chemicals. SAICM has facilitated chemical certification systems, private standards, and labels for chemical management. 
• The  United States Introduced the Toxic Substances Control Act (TSCA) in 2016. It regulates the introduction of new chemicals and the use of existing chemicals. 
• The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a textile production certification that limits toxic bleaches, dyes, and other chemical inputs during production. It is internationally recognized as a system that ensures the organic status of textiles, from harvesting raw materials through eco-friendly and responsible manufacturing to labeling.
• The Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHD) member brands and chemical companies created the Manufactures Restricted Substance List to restrict chemicals in the entire supply chain. They published the first list in 2014. The list includes chemicals banned from facilities that process textile materials, adhesives, leather, and trim parts.

Conclusion  

We must pay more attention to our fast-fashion consumption and hold various fashion companies accountable for their production processes. Some companies intentionally use harmful chemicals without caring about their effects on consumers and the environment. 

We can avoid interacting with these dangerous chemicals by buying sustainable clothing and other fashion items. Sustainable fashion companies are more mindful of their production process. They use sustainable materials and avoid chemicals that harm human health and the environment.